The Hut

The Fowler Hilliard Hut, originally constructed in 1988, is located near Vail Pass at 11,500 feet and is one of the most popular huts in the Tenth Mountain System.  On average, it has approx. 2,300 vistor/nights per year.  It was funded by the Fowler/Hilliard families in rememberence of Anne Fowler and Ed Hilliard who were tragically killed in a climbing accident.

The Fire

In September 2009, the existing Fowler Hilliard Hut suffered catastrophic fire damage.  Though it isn’t known with 100% certainty what caused the fire, lighting is suspected to be the cause.  Due to the rural nature of the huts, the fire wasn’t reported and discovered until it had destroyed the majority of the structure.  In response to the 1,500 reservations that had been made for the Fowler Hilliard Hut in the 2009-2010 season, Tenth Mountain put up a temporary yurt structure to be used until the new structure is complete.  The yurt, which sleeps approx. 16 and includes all of the amenities of the former Fowler Hilliard Hut, allowed the majority of the back country trekkers to keep their reservations.

The New Hut

The Tenth Mountain Division Hut Association initiated a massive fund raising effort to cover the budget shortfall of the hut’s replacement.  Also, through a quick response to the catastrophic hut damage, the project team began the pre-construction process immediately after the existing hut burned to the ground.  A coordinated effort between the Tenth Mountain Division, the original architect, and Structural Associates was launched to design and build the hut so that it would ready for the 2010-2011 season.  The group also developed a list of improvements to the hut’s energy efficiency, view, storage capacity and fire resistance that are being integrated into the new structure.  To follow the hut’s reconstruction progress, become a fan of the Tenth Mountain Hut Division on Facebook.

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More Info on the Project:

Tenth Mountain Division’s Fowler Hilliard Hut Reconstruction Site

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The Tenth Mountain Division Hut Association is keenly guided by principles of sustainability.  All of the electricity at the huts is produced using photovoltaic panels with battery storage and all heat and some cooking is through burning wood.  The sustainability theme was also put into practice during the construction of the Benedict Huts.

Constructed in 1997, the Benedict Huts are the newest Huts in the Tenth Mountain Hut system.  These huts straddle a rocky knoll near Warren Lakes outside of Aspen.  Warren Lakes has an interesting history.  In the 1940’s the spring creeks in this area were dammed to create Warren Lakes.  Trout were raised here to supply food for the railroad passengers.  Later the dams were breached and rich, high –altitude peat was harvested.  A large “peat barn” building was constructed to store and process the peat for sale.

Prior to construction of the Benedict Huts, the peat barn was systematically dismantled and sorted for usable building materials.  The result of this process was piles of corrugated tin metal panels, 3×8 beams and 6” wood columns.  All of these materials were used on the exterior of the Benedict Huts.  The corrugated metal panels were used for roofing and siding.  The 3×8 beams were used for decking, siding and trim and the 6” columns were used for the deck support posts.

Other sustainable items utilized at the Benedict Huts included reclaimed wood flooring from a 100 year–old barn from Gypsum, Colorado.  Additionally, Aspen wood wall and ceiling paneling which was harvested and milled in Montrose, Colorado.

The Tenth Mountain Division Hut Association manages 29 Huts throughout the central Colorado mountain region between Aspen, Vail and Leadville.  The heart of the system are 12 Huts that are owned and operated by the Tenth Mountain Division Hut Association [Tenth].

One of the founding fathers of the Hut system and World War II 10^th Mountain Division Veteran was Fritz Benedict. Structural Associates was fortunate enough to be selected as the builder of the Benedict Huts, honoring Fritz and Fabi Benedict.  The Benedict Huts were completed in the fall of 1997.  Despite the extreme challenges of construction at 11,600’, the positive, professional process led to a long term relationship between the “Tenth” and Structural Associates.

The service relationship started with Structural Associates conducting diagnostic site and building inspections.  These inspections resulted in maintenance schedules which allowed volunteers and professional associates of the Tenth to plan for repairs, improvements and maintenance.  Structural Associates, as a dedicated team member, has completed maintenance and repairs on the Huts every summer for the last thirteen years.

On September 21, 2009 there was a catastrophic fire at the Fowler Hilliard Hut, near Camp Hale.  The fire is believed to be caused by a lightning strike.  Structural Associates, as the team builder, will be constructing the new hut.  In addition to building the Hut, Structural has also had the opportunity to work closely with the Tenth and Architect by hosting a design charette as well as the continued development of the design and finish for the new Fowler Hilliard Hut. Construction on the new Hut started in mid June and will be complete for the 2011 season.

One of the primary reasons geoexchange systems have gained popularity as a sustainable source of energy is their high level of efficiency.  Certain systems have the potential to be up to 400% efficient,  meaning they produce 4 units of heat for every 1 unit of energy they consume.  When geoexchange systems are powered by renewable sources of electricity such as solar, wind or hydro, they become truly sustainable sources of energy, using only the elements to condition a home.

Intro to geoexchange (or geothermal) energy:

Geoexchange systems use the earth’s constant ground temperature to act both as a source of heating and cooling for your home.  Geoexchange heat pumps transfer heat energy from the ground to your home in the winter, and from your home to the ground in the summer.  Rather than converting fossil fuels into heat, geoexchange systems use electricity to move “heat BTUs” between the earth and your home.

Geoexchange system highlights:

• There are over 250,000 installations in place in the U.S. today
• Local, state and federal tax incentives are available for geoexchange systems
• Payback typically occurs within 5-10 years depending on system size, home size, etc.
• New technologies have lowered the costs of systems and increased reliability and performance

Common components of geoexchange systems:

Earth loop- the earth loop is the method with which the heat pump transfers energy between the home and the earth.  Earth loops all use a liquid mixture as the medium of heat transfer between the earth and the heat pump, and can be open or closed loop systems.  In closed loop systems, a water/glycol solution is circulated through underground or underwater piping, allowing heat transfer to take place with the earth.  In an open loop system, an entire well or pond acts as the medium of heat transfer.  In the case of ground source heat pump systems, loops can be either horizontal or vertical depending on your site configuration and available space.

Heat pump- the heat pump uses the same process as a refrigerator or air conditioner to transfer heat between the earth loop to the house loop.

Distribution system- the distribution system may look a bit more familiar then the other two components of a geoexchange system.  This component simply takes geoexchange energy and uses it to heat or cool your home.  Distribution systems for geoexchange energy use the same basic principles as conventional boilers, furnaces, air conditioners, etc.  The difference comes from the source of heat- which in this case involves a heat pump rather than natural gas burners, heating elements, etc.  In the winter,  distribution system essentially takes the heat energy extracted from the earth and distributes it throughout your home in a useful form- including forced air heating/cooling, radiant heating, domestic hot water, snowmelt and pool/hot tub heating systems.

Structural Associates is proud to have teamed with Doug Graybeal, AIA, to construct a 5,700 s.f. off-grid home at the top of Capital Creek.  The home employs numerous sustainable technologies including a 14.4kW photovoltaic system, post and beam frame, and strawbale construction.

Strawbale construction uses a sustainable resource with many positive attributes, making it a true “green build” method.  This article touches on many of the aspects that make this a viable type of construction to provide a quality home that can be built using almost all natural materials.

Materials

Strawbale construction uses straw from wheat, oats, barley, rice and other grains as a structural and insulating material.  The straw is traditionally a waste product which farmers do not till under the soil. Instead, it is typically used as animal bedding or for landscape supply due to its durable characteristics.  (Note that straw differs from hay in that hay is used to feed livestock and is not suitable for building use.)  Two hundred million tons of straw are burned annually in the US.  By utilizing this renewable resource, not only are we saving the wood typically used in construction we are also reducing the pollution related to the burning of the straw.

Strawbale construction provides high thermal insulation and sound insulation performance.  With factors typically ranging from R-30 to R-45, heating and cooling bills can be significantly reduced when compared to traditional 2×6 stud wall construction.  The attractive “thick” wall assembly also leads to a very quiet home interior.

Plaster is applied over the straw, creating a virtually fireproof assembly.  The plaster used in strawbale construction can be made from soils on the building site with the addition of natural hydraulic lime. Colors can also be added if desired but many owners and designers prefer to use the native soils as this provides a look consistent with the surrounding terrain.

While the floors in the main level of the Capital Creek home were burnished concrete, many straw bale homes also incorporate “mud” floors made from native soils with the addition of lime.  This design further reduces the “carbon footprint” of more typical concrete sub slab floors or wood frame floors.

Techniques

There are two types of strawbale construction: Post and beam infill for the walls or a more traditional structural wall system. While the Structural Associates strawbale home used the post and beam technique, there are benefits to both types, with the choice often depending upon local building codes and personal preference.

Structural wall strawbale construction: This is the original design of many of the older straw bale structures.  It is a “purer” form of this type of construction and there are examples still standing that are over 100 years old.  The structural wall design is more likely to show cracks in the plaster due to settlement than the post and beam structure.  Fortunately, cracks can be repaired with plaster relatively easily.  The structural wall design is also more difficult to receive building department approval for since it is difficult to calculate the load bearing capacities of the assembly.

Post and beam infill: The primary benefit of post and beam design is that the bales do not have to be compressed and held in place prior to the roof framing. Another positive side of the post and beam infill is that building departments are more likely to approve this type of construction due to the engineered values of the post and beam structure. On the negative side, there is often additional expense associated with the post and beam materials. The cost of labor is probably close to equivalent in both methods due to the effort required to pre-compress and hold the bales in the compressed (settled) state for the structural wall application.

The techniques for both types of strawbale construction have been refined in recent years and the designs for door and window openings are now far superior to what they were previously, preventing both air and water infiltration.  Details for door and window openings have changed from a basic “buck” detail around the openings to a detail that can be attached to part of the post and beam framework. A plywood buck supported by a 2X6 is installed from the posts and then heads off the straw bales on both the sides and at the top and bottom. Returns are recessed back into the wall to protect the door/window assemblies from weather elements. Larger than typical roof overhangs are also often utilized to prevent water from splashing onto the plaster walls, which could result in water migration into the straw.

How well is a strawbale assembly sealed? Based on the infrared photos that we took of the straw bale structure, the penetrations sealed well with typical foam insulation between the buck and the window unit and the straw tightly packed against the buck.

What should owners and architects look out for in building such a home? It would be wise to use a contractor and architect familiar with this type of construction. Research and a good review of the details is critical to be sure that water infiltration into the straw is prevented. Moisture infiltration into the straw must be avoided from both the inside and the outside. Good detailing in wet areas (e.g., baths and laundry rooms) is also essential to ensure longevity of the strawbale assembly.   It should also be noted that straw has not shown to be susceptible to any type of termite infestation.

Once plaster has been applied to the strawbale construction, the walls provide sheer resistance to the structure that is consistent with what one might expect from concrete. In fact, straw has many of the attributes of concrete with the exception of the R-values, where the R-value is considerably higher with the straw bale assembly.

In summary, strawbale construction as a sustainable building system is viable due to its reasonable construction costs and high insulation characteristics.  The straw is a renewable resource that will provide an attractive and comfortable environment while the plaster provides a warm and soft feel on both the interior and exterior of the home while creating a structure that can be made virtually fireproof and weather proof.  As this type of construction becomes more common,  it is likely to attract more attention from both architects and owners due to its sustainable nature, structural integrity, and low carbon footprint.

The residential construction sector has experienced a shift over the past 18 months, where economic circumstances have both helped and hurt the demand for renovations and remodels.  While general spending on new construction has declined, a combination of falling construction costs, improved tax incentives, and rising energy costs, have led to a proportional increase in demand for residential remodels. Homeowners are finding that now is an excellent time to take advantage of these incentives to remodel and increase the efficiency of their homes for much less money than in recent times.

Strucutural Associates’ recent renovation and service projects point to some of the most popular areas of a home to improve, as well as inexpensive ways you can increase the energy efficiency of your home.

Kitchens & baths- Any realtor will tell you that kitchens and bathrooms are one of the best places to add value to your home.  Kitchens especially have become a primary gathering spot in the home, and more attractive and better organized kitchens can be a major selling point of the home.  In addition, the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act includes a “Cash for Appliances” program similar to the Cash for Clunkers program.  The program offers consumers credits for new Energy Star qualified appliances.

Insulation & proper sealing- Adding insulation to your home, as well as verifying that all air gaps are properly sealed, is one of the best ways to minimize the heating and cooling losses from your home.  Doors and windows that are not properly sealed can be the primary source of energy loss in your home.  Many local utility companies will perform “energy audits” that will help determine how well your house is sealed, as well as which areas may be most troublesome.

Window & door upgrades- Homes that are 20-30 years old have windows and doors that are terribly inefficient by today’s standards.  If you perform an energy audit on your home and determine that you’re losing a considerable amount of energy (even if your home is well sealed), you should consider replacing your windows and doors.  A considerable amount of energy can also be lost through inefficient windows and doors, and replacing them can also be an excellent way to improve your home’s appearance.

Mechanicals- Multiple elements of your home’s mechanical and control systems may be contributing to an inefficient use of energy.  Outdated water heaters, furnaces, boilers, and other pieces of equipment are likely using considerably more energy than newer energy efficient models.  The “Cash for Appliances” program mentioned above also includes energy efficient mechanical equipment, making this an excellent time to upgrade your home’s mechanical system.  Pairing new mechanical equipment with intelligent thermostats and control systems can further increase the efficiency of your home’s heating and cooling systems.

Light bulbs- Homes that have a considerable amount of incandescent lighting are prime candidates for energy efficient retrofits.  A typical incandescent light is only about 10% efficient- meaning that 90% of the energy used is converted to heat while only 10% is converted to light.   This heat loss leads to further inefficiencies when a house full of incandescent light bulbs is trying to be cooled in the summer.  Companies have responded by offering both compact fluorescent lights (CFLs) and light emitting diode (LED) bulbs that can easily replace different styles of standard incandescent lights.  Both CFLs and LED bulbs last longer than incandescent bulbs, saving considerable amounts of money in the long run.

While this list of popular remodeling and retrofitting strategies is only a sampling of what you can do to your home, these items represent some of the most popular homeowner renovations.  For details on tax credits that are available for your remodel, please contact us or visit:   http://www.energystar.gov/taxcredits for details.

No two sealers are alike and no sealer will last forever.  Its life will depend on the type of sealer used and exposure conditions.  In general, exterior concrete and stone should be sealed every one to two years in our Colorado climate while interior concrete and stone should be sealed every five to seven years.  It is important to note that lower cost sealers purchased from local hardware stores usually can’t match the quality and performance of commercial professional grade sealers.

The type of sealer selected depends on desired aesthetics and performance.

Topical sealers come in many gloss levels including no-gloss, matte, satin, semi-gloss, and high-gloss.  The higher the solid content in a sealer the higher the level of gloss.  Solvent based sealers tend to darken or enhance the color of concrete more than the water based sealers.

Care should be taken when cleaning and prepping for sealer application as it is important that all surfaces are dry before applying the sealer.

Comprehensive deconstruction is rapidly becoming the norm in the construction industry.  Both for new construction and remodels, an evolving market is sparking new and creative uses of materials from existing structures.  In July of 2008, Structural Associates was charged with leading the deconstruction of a 6,000 s.f. house in Aspen.  Using the Aspen Efficient Building Program (AEPB) as a minimum baseline, we achieved a 70% recycle rate on the project. We surpassed our Green Point requirement, and saved the Owner tens of thousands of dollars through the re-use of raw material, direct sale of salvaged goods and tax deductions on items donated to Habitat for Humanity.

By conducting a thorough walkthrough of the property, our team began by identifying items that could be reused or salvaged for donation or direct sale.  We identified the most cost-effective components to salvage, and created various levels of deconstruction options that best fit the project.  Through coordinated efforts with Habitat for Humanity, we developed a deconstruction plan that followed the chain of custody through delivery at Habitat’s resale store.  The items donated were sold at a discount to the public, and proceeds helped support the construction of low-income housing throughout the valley.  We also coordinated third-party appraisal of the donation package, yielding a tax-deductible value of approximately $16,000.  Items not beneficial to Habitat for Humanity were sold locally via Craigslist as well as newspaper advertising.

Our deconstruction process included a focus on the following items:

Appliances- This particular project was a prime candidate for appliance recycling.  Because appliances come in standard sizes, we were able to salvage and donate two 48” Sub Zero fridge/freezers as well as a wall-mounted Kitchen-Aid oven.  The value of our appliance donations were approximately $5,000.

Cabinetry & Doors- This 1980’s custom home had a substantial amount of build-in oak cabinetry and solid doors.  By carefully removing and transporting to Habitat, our team was able to salvage every single piece of cabinetry and millwork out of the home and contribute nearly $9,000 worth of tax-deductible donations as a result.  By identifying these high quality items in the pre-deconstruction walkthrough, we were able to safely remove and salvage them.

Mechanical Equipment- A considerable portion of the home’s mechanical system was salvaged and sold to local homeowners.  Because high quality mechanical equipment can often last 15-20 years, our team felt that salvaging the equipment and offering it for sale to local homeowners was a cost-effective way of diverting it from the landfill and helping others complete home improvement projects at a reduced cost.  Proceeds from the local sale of items were returned in check form to the owner.

Raw Materials- The most substantial deconstruction efforts involved the sorting, grinding, and reuse of raw materials on site.  During the demolition phase, skilled equipment operators separated wood, stone, steel and concrete as they took the building apart.  Wood material was shredded and hauled separately to the landfill to be re-processed as mulch.  All mixed assembly waste was shredded on site to significantly reduce volume, and to be re-used as cover at the Pitkin County landfill.  The entire concrete foundation of the existing structure was crushed and stockpiled on site. The crushed concrete was independently tested and provided excellent quality backfill material.  By processing and reusing the existing concrete foundation on site, we reduced the material export, backfill import and material cost by approximately $10,000.

By sharing a common belief in environmental responsibility with the owner, Structural Associates set goals of salvaging $20,000 worth of components and achieving a 70% recycle rate, both of which we successfully reached.   Structural Associates is a leader in the application of efficient deconstruction and we encourage you to contact us if you have any questions or wish to discuss your project with us.

Numerous studies at the national, regional and local levels point to an upturn in the construction market in 2010, or at least less of a decline.  Within the reports, it is forecasted that the residential market will fair better than the nonresidential market.

The following table provides a summary of recent industry reports illustrating the year-to-year changes observed through 2009 as well as those forecasted for 2010 and beyond.  The causes and expected effects of these trends is discussed below.

* Residential expected to rise 2.1% from Q2 to Q3 and an added 4.8% in Q4

** Through July compared to same period in 2008; specifically, commercial business was down 44.2% from 2008 and hospitals/health treatment business was down 81.5%

*** Through July compared to same period in 2008

The cited causes of the residential market decline include the current weak economy, job losses, the limited ability to obtain financing, a large inventory of unsold homes and related declining home prices, as well as expected additional foreclosures.  The non-residential market fall is believed to result from the limited availability of credit, increased vacancies, halted expansion and downsizing.

Future growth is citied to be dependent upon low mortgage rates, the continuation of government incentives (e.g., new home buyer tax credits), and easing of the foreclosure trend, as well as increased buyer confidence and rising employment.

Unfortunately, the downturn has also resulted in severe job losses to date in the construction industry.  According to the July 10, 2009, AIA Consensus Construction Forecast Panel report, though the construction industry accounts for only 5% of the economy’s payroll employment, it has accounted for 20% of the job losses since the downturn began.  Architectural employment has declined nearly 14% alone.

The slow economy has also led to lower prices for materials but this trend may begin to reverse.  The AIA report notes that steel, copper, and aluminum declined at least 20 percent, and lumber and plywood declined 14 percent since the downturn began.  Similarly, a Reed Construction Data (RCD) article of October 19, 2009, states “construction material prices fell 7.5% from September 2008 to August 2009” but adds that the price index has been basically level since June.

The RCD report forecasts prices to remain constant or even rise slightly over the winter as a result of high but declining inventories, increased demand from the faster Asian economic recovery, and the depreciating US dollar.  Come spring, the expected strengthening of US, Canadian and European economies should increase construction material demands at a “modest pace” to inflate prices further.  Overall, RCD predicts material prices to rise 5% to 6% in 2010 and “slightly more” in 2011.  (For more detail, the article presents price changes over the past 3 years for numerous commodities, equipment and other construction inputs.)

Sources available upon request.

As we all know, accumulation of snow has significant impacts on how a home’s roof performs (or doesn’t) over the course of a winter. Unattended ice dams can quickly cause
leaks and costly repairs. Materials, pitch, drainage paths and orientation are important factors in how the roof will perform but these same parameters may be limited by the desired aesthetic design. Insulation and venting strategies (e.g., hot vs. cold roof design) must also be considered in any design for this region but, in the end, the use of heat tape, protected panel systems, snow fences and/or clips, and general snow removal maintenance may have to be incorporated. In this article, we will review these items’ applications, benefits, drawbacks, operating costs, and reliability as well as some best-practice design considerations.

• Heat tape is a must have for any application in which gutters and downspouts are employed. If installed properly, it will prevent gutters and downspouts from freezing. Note that in any heat tape application the water must be given a heated path to the ground. Therefore, even if there were no gutters prior to the installation of the heat tape, a gutter or similar system is required upon the installation of the heat tape.
• Heat tape is most often installed in a zig-zag pattern. This configuration allows water to pass through ice dams that form on roofline edges. It’s important to note that the heat cable itself needs to hang past the roof edge by 3/8″ to 1″ in order to allow water to pass. Runs should be planned to not exceed 250°.
• Heat tape can be run straight up valleys and downspouts and laid straight in gutters to assist with the passage of water.
• Heat tape can be retrofitted fairly easily as needed, which allows you to experience the affects of snowfall prior to incurring the expense of needless installation and operation (see Heat Tape Design below for tips on designing the power supply and drainage systems for future installation)

• If installed properly, heat tape greatly reduces the likelihood of having roof leaks caused by ice dams.
• Heat tape reduces the need for maintenance in the form of roof shoveling.
• Readily available, most roofing and gutter contractors will install the heat tape if provided a power supply. Current pricing is around $9 per lineal foot installed.

• The operating costs of heat tape can be significant. According to one leading manufacturer, when “in snow or ice” the cable output is approximately 8 watts/foot. Since the efficiency is near 100%, the input requirement is also approximately 8 watts/foot. So, if the 250′ maximum run of cable operates for an hour “in snow or ice”, it could use 2000 watts or 2kWh. Taking this further, if this cable runs 24 hours a day for a 31 day month, it will use 1480kWh. At $0.10/kWh (Colorado average as of April 2008), each cable could cost $148 per month to operate. It is probable that the cold temperatures of December through February will keep the cables running a significant portion of the time, so a client with 2 new cables could expect to experience an approximately $300/month higher electric bill.
• Heat tape circuits should remain on at all times. The tape is not designed to melt ice (which might form while the system is off) but, rather, to keep ice from forming. If ice builds on the tape while it is off, the tape may melt a small tunnel around the wire when turned back on but it may not be able to melt the bridge layer of ice above, potentially allowing the formation of an ice dam. A snow/moisture sensor can also be added to the system to allow operation only when snow is falling (though you have to be careful where you place the sensor).

• Most readily available heat tape is ’self-regulating’ meaning, as temperatures drop, more resistance occurs naturally in the cable, which then causes the cable to draw more power. Here’s the catch – if it is too cold, or if the tape becomes bound by ice, the resistance in the cable can reach levels which prevent the electric current from passing through it. When this happens, it usually shuts itself off or it may even trip the circuit’s breaker. At this point, one will likely have to clear the blockage, check the tape, and reset the breaker. Homeowners or caretakers must continuously monitor heat tape zones to ensure that they are working properly. If a heat tape circuit goes down, even for a short period of time, frozen gutters, downspouts, ice dams and roof leaks can occur in rapid succession.
• Heat tape is easily damaged or severed by snow shovels and ice picks. If a segment gets cut, or if the protective jacket of the cable gets nicked, the heat tape leg will likely trip its breaker and stop working. Maintenance workers must be carefully supervised, informed of all heat tape locations, and must check up after they have completed work to ensure that the heat tape is still working. While circuit splices are available, they should be minimized.
• The sun’s rays break down the cable’s protective coating over time. Depending on sun exposure, lifespan of the product can vary significantly.

• Heat tape requires a power source (120VDC or 240VDC), which should be designed into the structure even if the system is not installed initially. Typical outlet locations include soffits or, preferably, near the bottom of the downspout. The wire should enter the downspout through a grommet and should be protected in a conduit if the run from the wall to the downspout is significant.
• Heated gutter downspouts should empty directly into a subsurface drain and the heat tape should extend into the drain far enough to be below the frost line. Properly designed drainage systems and inlet locations can save significant money when retrofitting a heat tape system.
• Plan your heat tape lengths around the requirement that a maximum heat tape run is approximately 250′. Don’t forget to figure in the zig-zag pattern on roof edges and a path for the water to reach the ground (gutter/downspout/drain length).

• A number of companies have been working to develop solutions to some of the common problems previously reviewed – namely, the tendency for heat tape to become damaged during snow removal, snow slides, or by constant exposure to ultraviolet rays. While not explicitly endorsing any single company, it is helpful to know that a variety of different products exist which offer some improvement upon the admittedly vulnerable classic heat tape option. Options include heat cable installed in a protective channel system, bronze-mesh strips installed under the roofing shingles themselves, as well as other custom options. All have components that install on roof edges and valleys and can be tailored to fit most other needs but you need to be aware of the details.
• The most common system we’ve worked with installs continuous extruded aluminum track up to 10’ in length on the roof edges and valleys. The heat cable is then run inside channels in the track and a copper or colored aluminum cover is installed on top of it. Control systems monitor outside environmental conditions and ensure (in theory) that the heat tape system is operating in the conditions defined by the user.

• In our experience, the systems perform well and there have been no ice dam related roof leaks where the system was installed. The surface area of melting is much greater than that of the heat tape as the heat is distributed across the extruded track and cover. This heated surface will remain bare during the winter whereas heat tape only provides conduits for drainage immediately around the wire. The greater area of panel systems also moves the common freeze-thaw interface with the roof’s edge upward, closer to the wall/roof intersection, effectively reducing the width of the unconditioned overhang.
• The heat cable, once installed inside the track and safely encased in its protective cover, is more protected than its naked counterpart.
• The appearance of the system is cleaner than that of heat tape routed across the roof’s surface.

• Suppliers are still developing product interfaces for the multitude of applications that the system undoubtedly encounters. For example, in locations where two valleys meet at the ridge of the roof, the track and wire may need to run up one valley and then down the other. However, there exists a vulnerability of 3″ to 6″ across the ridge where the cable is not encased in metal as it transitions from one track segment to the next.
• The panel system still requires gutters and downspouts with the heat tape wire routed in the same fashion as heat tape only systems. At the ends of the panels, (installed along the eaves) the cable must transition from the panel cover into the gutter system to be connected. Some concern exists that at the panel edge, the cable could become cut or worn by its own weight pulling downwards against the end of the track.
• As mentioned above, one the possible problems one can encounter with heat tape is the possibility that the cable becomes ice-bound, or so cold that the current cannot pass through it, which then causes the cable to shut off. The panel systems we have used are not immune to this potential issue, and like more conventional heat tape, must be monitored to ensure they are continuing to operate correctly.
• The metal track and cover system mount onto the roof sheeting or protective underlayment. Due to its thickness of ˜3/4″, the standard system cannot be installed on roof pitches of 3:12 or less. There are product variations that can be mounted on lower pitches but we have not tested their performance.
• Panel systems are expensive to purchase and install, costing about three times that of standard heat tape at $25 per lineal foot installed. When performing the cost benefit analysis for this option, additional factors to weigh include: installer selection (some but not all roofing contractors are familiar with this type of product), coordination costs associated with the multi-sub-contractor (roofing and electrician) installation, the decreased expense of replacing snow slide, chopped or UV damaged heat tape, and the decreased expense of manual snow removal.
• Operating costs can rise above those of classic heat tape as the energy output during full operation ranges from 24 to 36 watts per lineal foot. While the zig-zag pattern of heat tape is not used, the panels do require 2-3 parallel runs of heat tape per lineal foot.

• The systems have not been operating for great periods of time but given the fact that the wire is a variation of (or even identical to) classic heat tape, we have no reason to doubt its long-term operation.
• It should be noted that these systems often require more sensors and controllers than on a standard heat tape application. While all are currently operating without an issue, none have undergone a significant test of time.

• When designing for panel systems, be aware of the same issues discussed for standard heat tape above – power supply, drainage paths, and length requirements
• Locations for additional sensors and controls may need to be defined. This may be especially true in situations where the roof experiences significantly different environments (e.g., a sunny side and a shady side) as you will want to route separate circuits such that each one operates within a specific environment. The circuit’s controlling sensor should also be placed within this environment to improve the circuit’s control and performance.
• You may want to keep every edge of the roof aesthetically consistent so you may need to plan for installing additional track and covers in areas where the heat tape cable is not even present.
• Note that the heat tape wire may show at transition panel points as it exits and enters from the ends of the track components. Adding panels to details such as cornice returns can be done but it is important to understand the look of the final product, including the routing of the wire if snow melting these areas is required.

• Snow slides injure and kill people each year, and at the very least, cause costly damage to roofing and gutter systems. There are options available to control snow slides, including many styles of snow fencing and roof clips. While snow fences are designed to retain the snow on the roof, roof clips are designed to break up the sheet of snow so that smaller portions break off over a longer period of time. Well designed clip systems require higher snow sheets to pass over the lower clips which act to break up the sheet’s mass.
• Snow fences and snow clips should be secured to the roof in a robust way. Should sliding snow or severe icing conditions loosen a snow fence or clip, the repairs need to be conducted very carefully and thoroughly as most are well bonded to the roof through numerous penetrations.

• Often times the best aid for roof performance is to have a professional maintenance person clear the snow and ice the old fashioned way: with a shovel. It is strongly advised that the shovels by plastic to limit damage. The snow should be removed periodically based on the pitch of the roof and snow load capacity of the structure. Remember that thawing and refreezing snow in the spring can increase its weight significantly.
• An alternative to the shovel that can often be better for the roof’s longevity is to use one of the new high-powered but light snow throwers. In the right hands, and especially if used right after large snows, the snow thrower vastly limits the hammering and chipping associated with shoveling.
• Make sure the maintenance crew is aware of all heat tape, snow fence and snow clip locations.